Guides

Totmyanin Nikolay

Honored Master of Sports in mountaineering, Rescue team badge, mountaineering instructor, judge of alpinism championships, coach. Repeated award winner and nominee of the awards “Golden Ice ax” and “Golden Ice ax of Russia”

Nikolai Totmyanin has done about 200 ascents to the mountain peaks of the Caucasus, the Pamirs, the Tien Shan, the Swiss Alps, the Himalayas and the Korakorum, including 27 of 5A complexity category, 10 of 5B, and 16 of 6^th difficulty category.

Ascents of the 6^th complexity category:
1984 Aksu from the North Face, 1986 Sabah from the North Face,
1988 Free Korea from the North,
1990. Lhotse Home (8516 m) from the South Face,
2004 Jeanne (7,710 m) from the North Face,
2007 K2 by the Western Wall, “Golden Ice Ax of Russia”

Winter ascents of 5-6 cat. difficulty:
1984 – Shurovsky peak from the bastion of the North Wall, Caucasus, the first winter walkthrough
1985 – Free Korea in the center of the North Wall, Tien Shan, the first winter walkthrough
1986 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m), Pamir, the first winter walkthrough
1989 – Krumkol along the Northern Ridge, the Caucasus, the second winter walkthrough
1997 – Eiger from the North Face, Swiss Alps
2001 – Urriel by the Western Wall, Cordillera Cantabrica, Spain, the first winter walkthrough
2014 – The first winter traverse of the Bezengi wall, Caucasus
2015 – Nanga Parbat, the Schell route to a height of 7150

High-altitude climbing:
1982 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m)
1983 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m), the peak of Communism (7495 m)
1984 – the Peak of Victory (7439 m)
1986 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m) – the first winter ascent
1988 – the peak of Communism (7495 m)
1990 – Korzhenevskaya peak (7105 m), peak of Communism (7495 m), peak of Communism (7495 m) – climbing from the base camp to the top and back during 28 hours, Lhotse Main (8516 m), the first walk by the South wall, 8350 m.
1991 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m)
1993 – Khan-Tengri (6,995 m) in August, Khan-Tengri (6,995 m) in October – 2 times
1994 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) – 2 times, the peak of Communism (7495 m) – 2 times
1995 – Khan-Tengri (6,995 m)
1996 – Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) – 2 times, Peak Communism (7495 m) 1997 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) in deuce, Khan Tengri (6995 m) – Solo ascent from the base camp to the top and back for 14 Hours 03 minutes, the Peak of Victory (7439 m)
1998 – the Victory Peak (7439 m)
1999 – Khan-Tengri (6995 m) – 2 times, the Victory Peak (7439 m)
2000 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) in deuce, Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) in pair, Peak Communism (7495 m) in pair
2001 – Lenin Peak (7134 m), Lenin Peak (7134 m) – solo ascent of the Northern slope from the camp (4200 m) to the summit and descent through the Razdelnaya summit to the camp (4200 m) in 12 hours 46 minutes.
2002 – Khan-Tengri (6995 m), Victory Peak (7439 m) in pair
2003 – Everest (8848 m) from the North through the Northern Saddle, without oxygen
2004 – Jeanne (7,710 m) along the North Face – the best climbing achievement of the year – climbing the Jeanne Peak (7,710 m) from the North Face as part of the “Russian Way – The Walls of the World” team, won the Golden Ice Ax prize.
2006 – Everest (8848) from the North through the North Saddle, without oxygen, 2007 – K2 (8611) along the Western Wall, without oxygen,
2007 – 2007 K2 on the Western Wall, “Golden Ice Ax of Russia”
2008 – Dhaulagiri (8167 m) in classics in pair with V. Babanov
2009 – Khan-Tengri (7010 m), the Victory Peak (7439 m) in pair.
2011 – Kanchenjunga Ch. (8586 m) in the classics without oxygen, Lenin Peak (7134 m)

year 2012:
22.07 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) solo classic to the top and back for 13 hours 50 min.
29.07 – Lenin Peak classic to the top (7 hours 20 minutes) and back for 4 hours (Lenin Race Competition).
2013 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m) classic
2014 – the peak of Lenin (7134 m) in the classics of solo
2015 – Winter ascent to Nanga-Parbat to 7150m., Lenin Peak (7134m) classic three times
2016 – Lenin Peak (7134 m) classic, Lenin Peak (7134 m) on the direction of the Northern slope from Camp 1, solo (7 hours to the summit) and descent through Razdelnaya to Camp 1.